Now in 2010 we do not  have a JBA Factory producing any vehicle that has been evaluated in any articles in the various Kit Car Press magazines or approved by VOSA BIVA testing.

Please note these are the old build pages from 1999 to 2004 when we had a JBA Factory in full production from 1982 that was regularly featured in the Kit Car Press and complied with regulations including passing UK Vosa SVA/BIVA tests and TUV tests in the EU.
A 2004 JBA Engineering Ltd Sports SR kit has passed the new BIVA test in June 2009.

Spanner Sizes
Spanner Sizes fits on the head of a bolt. 8mm spanner fits M5 bolt, 10mm......M6, 13mm......M8, 17mm......M10. 

Options
Paint or not to Paint see text.

What You Will Need 
Heater Unit from Mkll Fiesta.
Make blanking plate.
Silicon Sealer.

Painting
Before you start working on the CBU you will have to give a thought to painting your Falcon. 
Some owners build their car up to an almost a complete stage with the exception of the wiring. Then do a complete strip down removing the CBU and sending all the parts away for spraying, or paint it themselves. 
JBA adopt a different approach they paint the bulkhead at the start of the build, so that they do not need to remove the CBU and boot from the chassis. Instead they remove the wings, doors, boot lid, bonnet assembly and engine side panels and spray these separately. 
Then they remove the windscreen and windscreen frame and mask off the interior of the CBU and mask off the engine bay up to the bulkhead before spraying. The side screens are also removed from the doors.
Special Note 
The CBU has a central seam along it from the back panel over the top of the scuttle and right down both sides of the engine compartment. 
For painting, this seam has to rubbed down with wet and dry paper 600 grit, not any courser, use with water, rub evenly until smooth. Check it during rubbing down by running your fingertips over it, if your fingertips feel a resistance you will have to rub down further until smooth.
If you are using the JBA method you should rub down the seam first before you do any other work on the CBU.
If you are thinking of a complete strip down, the seem can be rubbed down after you have stripped the car. Please note that the wings also have a seam on their inner edge, which has to be rubbed down before painting.

The photo above shows my own CBU being fitted up after painting, with the Steering column moulding on the left which I painted black next to the protruding heater pipes. The black Air intake moulding at the top and the washer bottle on the right. 

Follow the instructions in the build manual. Complete these tasks on the floor or on a small trestle, before you fit the CBU to the chassis.
The initial process of preparing the CBU and fitting it to the chassis is quite straight forward and very simple.
Tip when pop riveting into glass fibre or wood use a washer behind the rivet on the inside, this helps to spread the load.
Drill and fit the air intake moulding to the front of the CBU bulkhead, seal with silicone sealer and rivet in position. Repeat with the steering column support moulding, this is a round object with a kink in the middle of it. The manual continues with the battery box drilling sealing and riveting in place.
When I was building I deviated from the manual here. I drilled the battery box, but did not seal and secure it at this stage, I used it as a handy access hole to and from the interior.

Attention is now turned to the heater which you can obtain from a Mk ll Ford Fiesta.
You will have to make a blanking plate into which you drill two holes, to accept the ducting hose to the demisters. Demisters are included in the SVA test.
In the photo above Doug has used swivel connectors from SVC who also supply the ducting and the fish tail ends to couple up to the demister vents. Remember 10% JBA Owners Club discount with SVC.

Next reduce the depth of the vertical flange on the scuttle inside of the CBU where the scuttle loop fits, to the measurements stated in the build manual.

Gear Lever Hole Position On some later models the hole for the gear lever was not cut out by the factory, this was to enable builders who were using different gearboxes to determine the cut out section to suit their individual set up.

To determine the position on the chassis, once the gearbox has been fitted measure backwards along the chassis from the front CBU mounting holes, which are pre- drilled and tapped by JBA. Continue backwards on both sides of the chassis until in line with the gear lever, put a straight edge piece of wood across the chassis to measure the centre position of the gear lever. Then transfer these measurements to the inside of the CBU from the front mounting holes where the scuttle loop bolts through the CBU to the chassis. Then widen the hole for movement of the gearlever including reverse.
Depending on the angle of the gearlever it is sometimes easier to put the gearlever into a forward gear to fit the CBU down over it.

The original gear lever cut out hole by the factory is shown on the wide tunnel in photo below for standard Ford Pinto and gearbox.

This photo shows a JBA Factory mock up showing the position of the scuttle loop. The two broad brackets on the right hand side facing downwards are the location points for the Sierra Steering assembly.

Now continue to rivet the heater mounting brackets to the wooden heater panel.
Guide the heater pipes through the bulkhead and bolt the heater unit in place.
Make up and fit a cover plate for these pipes on the engine side, seal and rivet or bolt into position, it is doubtful that the original Sierra or Fiesta one will fit, as the glassfibre is thicker than the metal on the Ford cars. 
Remember that you have to connect heater hoses to these pipes, secured by jubilee clips later in the build.

The photo above shows the bolt securing the scuttle loop to the bulkhead and the heater in position.

The photo above shows how the heater and demister set up looks later in the build.

Next follow the instructions in the build manual and fit and glue the chassis felt in position on the chassis.  

You will need the assistance of another person. It is a two man job to lift and manouver the CBU on to the chassis. Tilting it up and backwards to clear the seat belt uprights and the hood frame location brackets. The CBU is not heavy it is just that you need a person either side. 
Fit the black painted scuttle loop and bolt into the floor position to the chassis with the bolts supplied in the kit and drill the two top brackets and fit to the upper bulkhead using nuts, bolts and washers. Fit the two rear corner bolts which connect into the chassis. Tighten up all bolts properly and your CBU is now ready for fitting the other parts.

The next page deals with fitting the pedals and steering plus the master cylinder and servo to the CBU. 

   Additional Photos Courtesy Of Doug Philp.

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