Now in 2010 we do not  have a JBA Factory producing any vehicle that has been evaluated in any articles in the various Kit Car Press magazines or approved by VOSA BIVA testing.

Please note these are the old build pages from 1999 to 2004 when we had a JBA Factory in full production from 1982 that was regularly featured in the Kit Car Press and complied with regulations including passing UK Vosa SVA/BIVA tests and TUV tests in the EU.
A 2004 JBA Engineering Ltd Sports SR kit has passed the new BIVA test in June 2009.

Spanner Sizes
Spanner Sizes fits on the head of a bolt. 8mm spanner fits M5 bolt, 10mm......M6, 13mm......M8, 17mm......M10. 

Options

What You Will Need 
Side Screen Pack. from JBA Accessories List.

Follow the Instructions in your Build Manual.
This is a job that we done along with the sidescreen frame in order to get the angle and rake of the windscreen to marry up correctly. 
On the other hand you need the windscreen in place to take a measurement for the sidescreen position.

Fitting the windscreen frame this was a task that is fiddly and needs care, you have to pay attention to the manual.

Kenny cut the frame to fit the scuttle and slanted the bottom to fit the line of the door and rounded off the edges on the bench grinder. 
Then bent the bottom of each side of the frame inwards to fit the scuttle.
I marked the holes in the frame and then drilled using the smallest drill I could buy. It takes ages to drill through stainless steel and the drill must be used at a slow speed.
Once that initial small hole is drilled it is quick to get up to the diameter of hole you require by stepping up one drill bit size at a  time. 
The frame was now secured by temporary bolts.

Next we decided to fit the sidescreens.

Fitting the Side Screens

Some builders have these side screens polished whilst others paint them to match their car.
There are 4 sections to each sidescreen.

1      The Front Leg fits on the front of the door. This is handed and means one is for offside door and other for nearside door.

2     The Rear Curved section fits on rear of the door.  These are handed as well.

3     The Centre Bar holds the glass.

4     The Fibreglass Trim Panel. Again handed one for nearside and one for offside.

Other parts include 6 Stainless Steel brackets for securing the sections together. 36 Pop Rivets. Double Channel Insert 146 inches long on Sports ( Longer on TSR) This is what the Glass sits and runs in. The Four Piece Glass Windows Set. (Not Supplied in Kit but available from JBA)

Special Note 
Measurements are now in millimeters. Always check with your own Build Manual supplied by JBA.
The measurements given below are for the Sports that I built back in 1993 and are different for the Sports and TSR today. 

Front Leg.

First we fitted a Stainless Steel bracket to the Top of the Front Leg. This is just fitted loosely at this stage. Next we lined up the Front Leg section to the door and set the front Top Corner 5/8ths of an inch below the  Top Stud Hole in the side of the Windscreen Frame. We made sure the angle and rake of the windscreen was equal to the leg in order to get this measurement.  This is the measurement you need from the Windscreen Frame.

The photo above shows that the front leg needs bending inwards to marry up with the windscreen pillar.

I held this in place while Kenny drilled the two holes 6.5mm (for 8mm threaded countersunk bolts) in the bottom part  through the leg and through the steel strips bonded into the door by JBA. 
We removed the Front Leg and Kenny run an 8mm Tap into the holes drilled in the door. Then Countersúnk the holes on the Front Leg and fitted it to the door.
On closing the door we found that the raised edge was fouling the CBU slightly. This was easily rectified by filing a little off the raised edge. This was checked against the side screens and the Front legs can be adjusted inwards or outwards, by bending slightly with the joint opened up and glass removed from side screens., Once both doors were set up without the glass, we continued with the Windscreen frame adding the interior sections to the windscreen frame so that we could fit the complete seal. 

Rear Curved Section   

I held the rear section in place While Kenny measured the distance between the bottom of the door and the top of the rear section at a point 14 inches back from the front and on top of the join of the rear section and the front leg.
Once we had this measurement correct Kenny drew a line on the inside of the door where rear section ended and drilled the holes. Using the same procedure as the front leg tapping the holes for 8mm. countersunk screws.
The two sections were then pop riveted together. Kenny spent quite a lot of time getting the joint correct with a nice tight fit.

The Centre Bar.

This is the part that holds the side screen glass. This was cut to size as it is supplied over length.
We set this at a distance of 10 and 1/4 quarter inches from the top of the rear section frame and secured it with the stainless steel brackets and pop rivets supplied.
These brackets we fitted on the underside of the bar secured to the bottom sections of the Front Leg and Rear Section. ( Not upwards in the glass area ) So that they were concealed by the Trim Panel.

The GRP Trim Panel.

We fitted this using pop rivets spaced 4 inches apart but only held it in place at this stage with three rivets as it had to be painted and sealed later. 

Various builders have fibre glassed the trim panels to the doors. Like Keith Hays has done in the photo above.

In the photo above Doug has not used the GRP panel and has done his sidescreens in a totally different way. More Info.

Sealing the GRP Trim Panel.

This part was done after the car was painted.
I had painted these with undercoat and finally black with a spray can from "Halfords" and stuck on a piece of very thin rubber to the inside of them where it butts against the outside of the door and pop riveted them in place with a little black sealer between the underside of the aluminium channel and the panel. 

With the door open there is a space in the rear of the panel which I sealed using a piece of wing tread strip fitted the wrong way round and glued into position with black sealer.
At the front of the door there is a tiny space which I sealed from the inside with black sealer.

Fitting the Double Channel.

We cut strips off this to the required length and fitted them into the aluminium channel. However I made a mistake here. I fitted the channel into the front leg first right to the top and then the channel into the rear section. This seemed fine, but once the car was on the road and the front window open the channel would drop down slightly.
So make sure you fit the channel to the rear curved section first and that the channel in the front leg holds this up.

Fitting the Glass.

We had to open up the joint at the top of the front leg and then slid the glass in. The rear glass goes in the inside channel and the front glass goes in the outside channel.
A lot of owners use small rectangular pieces of glass or plastic rounded off and smoothed and stuck to the inside of the windows with clear glue. To aid the opening and closing of these windows.

The windows must be able to open and close easily from the inside of the car, so the glass or plastic pieces mentioned are rounded off and acceptable to the V.I. 
All glass must have manufacturers approval mark.

The Windscreen Parts

Top = Hood retaining bar stainless steel.
Next = Top mild steel Inner bar.
Each Side = Steel Inner side sections.
Bottom = Aluminium channel & P rubber.
Centre = Sealing Rubbers.

This photo shows a side section. These are handed. This is the right hand side one here.

The first thing to do is have a plywood template of the windscreen made to the exact size in height width and depth. Rather than using the windscreen glass I had a wooden template of the glass made and used this to line up the whole lot and used it again on final assembly. What I actually did was use the wood template as the windscreen glass and fitted the sealing rubbers, leaving a small space for the silicon sealer to be added when the glass was finally fitted.
This adds immense strength to the frame and saves damaging the glass.  It was a tip I received from Steve Himsworth of YKC. Steve broke three windscreens on a JBA and many other builders have done the same, as it is ever so easy to crack the glass. Remember JBA cannot send replacement glass by post or carrier.
You can also fit the hood later in the build up stage rather than waiting till the car is painted using the wooden windscreen. 

First cut the bottom aluminium channel so that it fits the plywood template and fits in between the windscreen pillars level with the front edge of the pillars. Cut the "P" rubber to fit. Then fit "P" rubber underneath this channel. Fit the seal to the plywood screen so that it fits the front, bottom and rear and push into aluminium channel.

Photo taken at Factory.
In the photo above you can see the windscreen glass fitted. Note the "P" weather strip held in place by little pieces of metal pop riveted onto the scuttle. 
These pieces of metal can be made from off cuts from the aluminium panels later in the build.

In the Photo above you can just see the hood retaining bar bolted to the top of the windscreen frame. Also note the hood stud fitted on the side of the windscreen frame.

Next the inside mild steel top frame has to be cut and drilled in accordance with the Stainless steel hood retaining strip. This is fitted along with the seal used dry at this stage. 

Next the side parts have to be drilled and fitted to the windscreen frame along with the seals and cut at the top, so that the top part curves round to meet the inner mild steel strip. The door sealing rubber fits onto this. If you wish to fit the hood before stripping the Falcon down insert the hood stud on either side of the windscreen frame, before securing the inner side frames.

This seal continues all along the top of the windscreen and down the CBU round the door and finishes next to the seat belt upright. Now make sure the frame is really tight. 

The photo above shows additional strengthening brackets Kenny fitted from the windscreen bolt holes to the scuttle loop.

Mistake I made next I copied the mirror location from another JBA. I thought they looked good.

I had purchased MG T type mirrors from Holden and fitted them to the windscreen frame as you can see in the photo.

The nearside mirror was fitted in the same position.

Of course to see in the nearside mirror it had to pulled right back, so that when you opened the passenger door it hit the mirror.

That is why most people fit their mirrors on the side window flaps or the doors. 

The Mirrors must be fitted so that they are within the percentage of visibility stated in the SVA Manual. The Drivers exterior mirror must be adjustable from inside the car and mirrors should not vibrate obscuring view.

The next page deals with fitting the Wiper motor and Wheel boxes. Windscreen Wipers, Radiator Shell, Horn,
Grill Bars, Bonnet Support and JBA Badge.

   Additional Photos Courtesy Of Doug Philp.

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