Now in 2010 we do not  have a JBA Factory producing any vehicle that has been evaluated in any articles in the various Kit Car Press magazines or approved by VOSA BIVA testing.

Please note these are the old build pages from 1999 to 2004 when we had a JBA Factory in full production from 1982 that was regularly featured in the Kit Car Press and complied with regulations including passing UK Vosa SVA/BIVA tests and TUV tests in the EU.
A 2004 JBA Engineering Ltd Sports SR kit has passed the new BIVA test in June 2009.

Spanner Sizes
Spanner Sizes fits on the head of a bolt. 8mm spanner fits M5 bolt, 10mm......M6, 13mm......M8, 17mm......M10. 

Options

What You Will Need 
Wiper Motor, bracket, pad, drive cable and gear, 3x32teeth wheel boxes, drive tubing, 3 chrome caps with washer, 3 wiper arms, 3 wiper blades. 
Windscreen washer bottle and jet, Horn.

Fitting the Wiper Assembly

Wiper Motor
The photo above shows the ends of the three wheel boxes protruding from the scuttle and the wiper motor in place, this connects by brass ferrule on the motor to the drive tubing to the wheel boxes under the scuttle. Large thick grommets can be obtained from Transits or Trucks to seal the hole.
The motor used is from a BMC Maxi and Marina. It is also available from a Lucas depot, as it is used in certain Land Rovers and plant machinery.
It requires a 95 degree gear or 100 degree gear wheel. 

We started off by drilling out the three pilot holes in the scuttle to size required by the wheel boxes.
Next we started fitting the degree wheel to the wiper motor and fitted the wiper motor to the CBU using the rubber protection pad and drilling two holes for the clamping bracket. 

The photo above shows the drive tubing and two of the three wheel boxes fitted to the underside of the scuttle.
Then we fitted the three wheel boxes to the previously drilled holes in the scuttle remembering the sealing washer. The wheel boxes are 32 teeth. We then connected the boxes together using two pieces of 5/16 drive tubing, which has to be flared at each end. Already cut and flared from SVC.

The third piece of drive tubing between the wiper motor and the first wheel box we had to curve in a gentle fashion, to avoid strain on the inner cable. 
As we did not have a bending tool, we managed to make the curve by bending the tubing round paint tins of various sizes, until we achieved the correct curve. Warm the tubing first. Have the drive cable running through the tubing as this prevents the tubing kinking.
We did not grease and fit the inner cable at this stage but did so after painting the car. Finishing the wheel boxes off with Chrome MGB caps and washers, once again from SVC.

An almost complete wiper set up to fit a JBA is available from SVC - Stafford Vehicle Components Ltd. Formerly known as Anthony Stafford Vehicle Components. It consists of the following.

Wiper Motor,  Lucas 16 Watt, Two Speed ....................£50.00
Complete with moulded brass ferrule.

Insulated Pad and Securing Strap................................£ 7.00

Drive Cable Rack cut to size.......................................£15.00

100.degree Drive Gear...............................................£15.00
Available from 90 degree to 130 degree.

3 x 32 teeth Wheelboxes at £20 each..........................£60.00 
Wheel boxes include, inner spacer, gasket, 
chrome outer bezels/caps, chrome nut. 
Other sizes available.

3 pieces of Drive Tubing Cut and Flared........................£17.00
Made from Correct Material includes brass ferrule fitted. 

Prices include VAT and are correct at 30-05-2003. 

The tubing supplied by SVC is made from the correct material. Do not use copper tubing. As it wears out very quickly, leading to a drag on the motor and the motor inevitably burning out.

Remember 10% JBA Owners Club discount with SVC. 

SVC Wiper Motor Wiring Diagram

An excellent article all you need to know about the wiper motors has now been added to the SVC website on 06-06-2003. It includes fitting tips, wiring connections etc. Click on the link at the bottom of this page to take you to their site, then click on Wipers when you arrive.

Wiper Blades & Arms

Wiper Arms & Blades are available from JBA and Europa.
Fitting these to the wheel boxes is a simple push on fit to the splines, but you may have to shorten the JBA blades by cutting them to clear the top windscreen frame. 
Caution    
Once your Falcon is painted and ready for the road. Check the JBA blades when the hood is in place and try the sweep by switching them on, to make sure they do not foul the hood. I cut mine without the hood up and did not realise until it was raining, that the drivers one was catching the hood. Result I could not use the wipers I had to take the drivers wiper arm off until I got home. Fortunately only five miles away.

A far better blade is the "Tex Classic" range from Europa, I replaced my JBA blades with these, when time came to renew them.

Windscreen Washers
We drilled the scuttle to accept the chrome washer nozzle and fitted the washer bottle to the nearside bulkhead, drilling a hole to take the silicon water pipe through into the CBU and up to connect to the washer jet inside the scuttle. To fit the tubing onto the jet dip the end of the tubing in hot water first. It may be easier to fit the tubing to the jet first then feed the tube and jet down through the scuttle, run the washer and nut up the tubing to secure the jet then pass it through the CBU and fit to washer bottle.
Available from SVC and Europa.

Tip if at any time you need to replace windscreen washer tubing. 

Try a good Aquarium shop, they sell this in abundance and far cheaper than motoring outlets, in various diameters from small to large.

In rolls or cut to the length you require.

I used a piece of 3/4" plywood and placed it against the inside of the radiator shell and  drew the outline of the radiator shell on it then drew a copy of this line 3mm less and cut the plywood to this line. Make sure the plywood does not blank off too much of the radiator. 

I then varnished the wood.  Mike had a better idea and fibreglassed the wood and painted it maroon to match his car. It gave a really professional look to his Falcon. You could also use aluminium.

Radiator Shell

Fitting this is simple apart from drilling the stainless steel. I followed the instructions in the manual and fitted the side brackets supplied by JBA Then I fitted the support bracket and the plywood surround. Brackets shown in photo below.
Horns
A handy place to hang your horn(s) is on the radiator shell mounting brackets. They are protected from the weather, by the front tray and the number plate. I used the twin high and low note from SVC.

Some SVA test centres require that the inside edges of the grill, surrounding the grill bars, should be covered with rubber beading to reduce the sharpness of this edge. Bumper over rider miniature beading can be used. Available from Woolies Part number 305. Also from Europa.

I removed the radiator shell and fitted the grill bar pack that is the polished stainless steel that runs from top to bottom. Two studs are already welded on the inside of the radiator shell to accept the mild steel bars.
I drilled holes in the two mild steel metal bars, supplied in the pack, one inch apart from the central point and pop riveted the polished bars onto the two mild steel bars and refitting them to the radiator shell.
Careful with your fingers, the rear part of these bars are quite sharp.

The Badge needs rubbing down on its edges and given a good polish. 
Fitting the JBA badge, firstly bend the badge to the shape of the radiator, warm the badge first, you can apply heat by various means, blowlamp, heating gently in the oven (Not A Microwave oven) and any other ways you can think of.
Then there are four ways to fit the badge that I know of.

Two Hole Fixing
My way cheap and cheerful, drill two holes in the badge at the side of the letters then place in to the position you want it on the radiator and mark the position of the holes and drill the shell then fit the badge with two self tapping screws, or bolts. I fitted rubber between the badge and the grill, cut to the same size as the badge. 

Two Hole Fixing
A tip I received from David McDine. I have used a different approach to fit the badge. Not wanting to have the screws showing, or risk drilling a hole right through. I bended the badge to fit the shell, using my favourite template, a piece of "Meccano" to space two holes in the shell. 
Then using a blowlamp and plumbers solder, soldered two screws to the rear of the badge. These were held and spaced using my trusty "Meccano". 

One Hole Fixing
This next tip from Andy Grice appeared in the JBA Owners Club Magazine in Winter 1993 was to solder a flat headed unplated M5 screw in the centre, on the rear of the badge, drill one hole in the centre of the grill and bolt from behind. Clean back of badge with wire wool first.

Two Hole Fixing
The professional way, as done by Derek Bintcliffe, measure the depth of the badge on the J and on the A the thickest part of the badge, then start to drill from the back of the badge with a depth gauge on the drill so that you don't drill right through the badge, then use a thread tap to run a thread up the holes.
Then use a template copy of the holes to drill the shell and fit the screws from behind the shell, secured by washer and spring washer. 
That way no screws are showing on the front of the badge.

Remember that the badge is made of  brass, which is a very soft metal, don't be too heavy handed with the drill. Hope I have got that right Derek.

The next page deals with fitting the Bonnet Hinge and Bonnet Panels. 

   Additional Photos Courtesy Of Brian McKinstry, Doug Philp, 
Steve Longley and Steve Taylor-SVC.

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