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Fitting The Wings, Piping and Trays

                

Now in 2010 we do not  have a JBA Factory producing any vehicle that has been evaluated in any articles in the various Kit Car Press magazines or approved by VOSA BIVA testing.

Please note these are the old build pages from 1999 to 2004 when we had a JBA Factory in full production from 1982 that was regularly featured in the Kit Car Press and complied with regulations including passing UK Vosa SVA/BIVA tests and TUV tests in the EU.
A 2004 JBA Engineering Ltd Sports SR kit has passed the new BIVA test in June 2009.

Spanner Sizes
Spanner Sizes fits on the head of a bolt. 8mm spanner fits M5 bolt, 10mm......M6, 13mm......M8, 17mm......M10. 

Options
Coloured Wing Piping

What You Will Need 
Wing Piping, Wing Tread, Rubber Infill Strip, Pop Rivets, Dome Bolts for rear valance.

Fitting the Wings

Firstly I fitted the 15 inch wheels and tyres to the chassis before attempting to fit the wings. This was just my idea, as the measurements in the manual make sure you get it right. 
The Falcon should be sitting level when fitting the wings.

These were fitted according to the Build Manual. Strictly following the measurements supplied.
Kenny and I set up the front wings and reduced the flange where it butts against the radiator shell. I do not have a photo of the wing flange uncut but it is explained here.
When we first placed the front wing over the wheel and in front of the radiator shell, it sticks out way past the front of the chassis. This is because the flanges hit the radiator shell.
We measured the distance it was over hanging the front of the chassis and cut this measurement from the flanges, as you can see above, We had to cut another 6mm from this again as the wing has to sit this distance in from the front of the chassis. Do not cut all the flange away as the front aluminium tray fits onto them.

Wing Support Plates.

We fitted the front wing support plates, this is an angled bracket that slides into the under side of the bracket on the left drilling a normal hole. Then drilled an elonganated hole into the angled bracket, which would allows us to alter the height of the wing. I added a piece of rubber cut from an old inner tube to the top of the support where it meets the wing.

The wing is eventually bolted to the bracket by the side lamps which were fitted later.

Checking the height measurements from the manual. Then we drilled a hole in the front wing through the bracket on the chassis at the front grill and rechecked the measurements. Once this was achieved we drilled another two holes in the vertical flange of the front wings through to the bracket at the front grill making three holes in all. 
Adhering to the manual for the height from the door to the wing we drilled another seven holes along the bottom of the front wings. 
There are longer bolts in the pack these are used to fit the wings underneath the doors on the wide part of the CBU at the door entrance. 

The rear wings came next. Firstly we had to file away part of the flange of the CBU so that the rear wings could fit tight up against the CBU, being careful that we did not open up the seam. We clamped the rear wing to the front wing then drilled three holes in the rear of the wing where it joins onto the rear wing and bolted it loosely in place. 
We then sized the wing up to the CBU and rear boot to check where to mark the wing to drill the nine holes making sure they were not going to be inaccessible and not in the way of anything we might drill through.
We drilled the holes in the rear wing away from the car.
Next we sized up the rear wing again clamping it to the front wing and marked the CBU and end panel of the boot.  We removed the rear wing and drilled the nine holes through the body and rear panel and fitted the wing.

Repeating this on the other side of the car. Only this time we lined up both front wings with a spirit level.
Firstly we checked that the car was level by placing the spirit level on the front chassis where the front tray sits.
Then Kenny held the wing in place and I used a straight piece of wood across the two wings with the spirit level on top and Kenny adjusted the height of the wing and I marked the position of the wing support plates.
Kenny drilled the support plates and fitted the front wing and rechecked with the spirit level, spot on.

Then we  cut out the lower aluminium side panels which are sketched onto a panel supplied by JBA which is placed inside of the engine compartment and drilled, fitting it to the wings with four bolts. 


Explained on previous page.

Last Page

Front and Rear Trays

Fitting Front Tray

Check Manual On the Tourer and TSR this tray has different measurements for fitting.
This is simple. The tray is oversize at the radiator end and requires cutting. We followed the instructions in the manual and presented the tray to the radiator and marked the outline of the radiator onto the tray.
Then we measured the distance the tray was sticking out over the end of the chassis  and deducted this measurement from the line we had drawn on the tray and made a new line.

 
And cut to this line and added trim to the edge where it butts on to the radiator grill. 

We deviated from the manual here by fitting bolts with chrome dome head nuts, may not pass SVA Test now. So all we needed was to drill six equally spaced holes three either side in the plate and through the wing flanges. If you are fitting self tapping screws you will need to drill ten holes.

Rear Valance Panel  

This rear panel fits on top of chassis between the bumper mounting and the boot. The boot may have to be loosened slightly to fit the tray. I am not sure what means there are of fixing it to chassis, but I would think it would be secured by four bolts. 
On Keith's car further down this page I can spot one of the domed chrome or stainless steel bolts in line with the chassis bars from the petrol tank to the bumper. Remember exterior bolts will have to be domed or countersunk or capped for the SVA test.

Wing Piping

We left the wings slightly loose to do this job. 
First I fitted a bit of wing piping in between the join of the front and rear wings. I draped the piping along the front and rear wings on its flat and left it protruding past the radiator grill a wee bit ( in case of mistakes )

The piping has a tail on it and this we fed behind the wing until we felt it hit a bolt, then marked the piping with chalk as to where the bolt was.
We continued doing this all the way from the radiator grill to the bottom of the rear wing.  Then removed the piping and cut out bolt clearances as indicated by chalk marks. 

1993 Sports Photo Non Opening Boot

This part above where it takes a right angled turn at the boot we had to cut a big "U" section out of the tail. Right up to the beading part in order for it to get round the corner, as the tail all bunches up preventing the wing fitting properly. The masking tape on the petrol cap is to prevent dust getting into the lock. 
The wings were then tightened up to check for correct fit.

In the above photo I liked the way Keith has fitted the wing piping or beading round the rear valance. Coloured wing piping, wing tread and rubber infill strips are all available from Woolies.

Fitting the Wing Tread Strips. 

I had to alter one measurement here from that stated in the manual. That was a 10mm gap between the front and rear wing. The reason for this is that I was adding wing tread end caps, which I got from Beauford cars.  End caps are available in different varieties from various suppliers. The rest of the measurements were strictly adhered to.


End Caps are now an SVA requirement.

These are the triangular bits that finish the strips off. I placed an end cap 10mm away from the rear wing joint and then fitted the wing tread strips according to the manual. The rubber infill strips are fed in from one end and cut to size.
Then adding an end cap to the front end of the strips. Please note the Beauford end caps stick on, so that at this stage they were only used for measurement. They were finally stuck on, removing the backing paper, when the car was re assembled after painting. 
The reason for leaving a 10mm gap between front and rear wings is to let rainwater drain away.

The next page deals with fitting the Hood.   

            

                                                                    

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